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The Journals
of Lewis and Clark: Dates August 7, 1805 - August 9, 1805
The following
excerpts are taken from entries of the Journals of Lewis
and Clark. Dates: August 7, 1805 - August 9, 1805
August 7, 1805
Wednesday 7. We remained here this morning for the purpose
of making some celestial observations, and also in order
to refresh the men, and complete the drying of the baggage.
We obtained a meridian altitude which gave the latitude
of our camp at north 45° 2' 48" 8"'. We were now completely
satisfied that the middle branch was the most navigable,
and the true continuation of the Jefferson. The northwest
fork seems to be the drain of the melting snows of the mountains,
its course cannot be so long as the other branch, and although
it contains now as great a quantity of water, yet the water
has obviously overflowed the old bed, and spread into channels
which leave the low grounds covered with young grass, resembling
that of the adjoining lands, which are not inundated; whence
we readily infer that the supply is more precarious than
that of the other branch, the waters of which though more
gentle are more constant. This northwest fork we called
Wisdom river.
As soon as the baggage was dried, it was reloaded on board
the boats, but we now found it so much diminished, that
we would we able to proceed with one canoe less. We therefore
hauled up the superfluous one into a thicket of brush where
we secured her against being swept away by the high tide.
At one o'clock all set out, except Captain Lewis who remained
till the evening in order to complete the observation of
equal altitudes: we passed several bends of the river both
to the right and left, as well as a number of bayous on
both sides, and made seven miles by water, though the distance
by land is only three. We then encamped on a creek which
rises in a high mountain to the northeast, and after passing
through an open plain for several miles, discharges itself
on the left, where it is a bold running stream twelve yards
wide. We called it Turf creek, from the number of bogs and
the quantity of turf on its waters. In the course of the
afternoon there fell a shower of rain attended with thunder
and lightning, which lasted about forty minutes, and the
weather remained so cloudy all night that we were unable
to take any lunar observations. Uneasy about Shannon, we
sent R. Fields in search of him this morning, but we have
as yet no intelligence of either of them. Our only game
to-day was one deer.
August 8, 1805
Thursday 8. There was a heavy dew this morning. Having
left one of the canoes, there are now more men to spare
for the chace; and four were sent out at an early hour,
after which we proceeded. We made five miles by water along
two islands and several bayous, but as the river formed
seven different bends towards the left, the distance by
land was only two miles south of our encampment. At the
end of that course we reached the upper principal entrance
of a stream which we called Philanthropy river. This river
empties itself into the Jefferson on the southeast side,
by two channels a short distance from each other: from its
size and its southeastern course, we presume that it rises
in the Rocky mountains near the sources of the Madison.
It is thirty yards wide at its entrance, has a very gentle
current, and is navigable for some distance. One mile above
this river we passed an island, a second at the distance
of six miles further, during which the river makes a considerable
bend to the east. Reuben Fields returned about noon with
information that he had gone up Wisdom river till its entrance
into the mountains, but could find nothing of Shannon. We
made seven miles beyond the last island, and after passing
some small bayous, encamped under a few high trees on the
left, at the distance of fourteen miles above Philanthropy
river by water, though only six by land. The river has in
fact become so very crooked that although by means of the
pole which we now use constantly we make a considerable
distance, yet being obliged to follow its windings, at the
end of the day, we find ourselves very little advanced on
our general course. It forms itself into small circular
bends, which are so numerous that within the last fourteen
miles we passed thirty-five of them, all inclining towards
the right; it is however much more gentle and deep than
below Wisdom river, and its general width is from thirty-five
to forty-five yards. The general appearance of the surrounding
country is that of a valley five or six miles wide, enclosed
between two high mountains. The bottom is rich, with some
small timber on the islands and along the river, which consists
rather of underbrush, and a few cottonwood, birch, and willow-trees.
The high grounds have some scattered pine, which just relieve
the general nakedness of the hills and the plain, where
there is nothing except grass. Along the bottoms we saw
to-day a considerable quantity of the buffalo clover, the
sunflower, flax, green sward, thistle and several species
of rye grass, some of which rise to the height of three
or four feet.
There
is also a grass with a soft smooth leaf which rises about
three feet high, and bears its seed very much like the timothy,
but it does not grow luxuriantly nor would it apparently
answer so well in our meadows as that plant. We preserved
some of its seed, which are now ripe, in order to make the
experiment. Our game consisted of deer and antelope, and
we saw a number of geese and ducks just beginning to fly,
and some cranes. Among the inferior animals we have an abundance
of the large biting or hare fly, of which there are two
species, one black, the other smaller and brown, except
the head which is green. The green or blowing flies unite
with them in swarms to attack us, and seem to have relieved
the eye-gnats who have now disappeared. The mosquitoes too
are in large quantities, but not so troublesome as they
were below. Through the valley are scattered bogs, and some
very good turf, the earth of which the mud is composed is
of a white or bluish white color, and seems to be argilaceous.
On all the three rivers, but particularly on the Philanthropy,
are immense quantities of beaver, otter and muskrat. At
our camp there was an abundance of rosebushes and briars,
but so little timber that we were obliged to use willow
brush for fuel. The night was again cloudy which prevented
the lunar observations.
On our right is the point of a high plain, which our Indian
woman recognizes as the place called the Beaver's-head from
a supposed resemblance to that object. This she says is
not far from the summer retreat of her countrymen, which
is on a river beyond the mountains, and running to the west.
She is therefore certain that we shall meet them either
on this river, or on that immediately west of its source,
which judging from its present size, cannot be far distant.
Persuaded of the absolute necessity of procuring horses
to cross the mountains, it was determined that one of us
should proceed in the morning to the head of the river,
and penetrate the mountains till he found the Shoshones
or some other nation who could assist us in transporting
our baggage, the greater part of which we shall be compelled
to leave without the aid of horses.
August 9, 1805
Friday 9. The morning was fair and fine. We set off
early, and proceeded on very well, though there were more
rapids in the river than yesterday. At eight o'clock we
halted for breakfast, part of which consisted of two fine
geese killed before we stopped. Here we were joined by Shannon
for whose safety we had been so uneasy. The day on which
he left us on his way up Wisdom river, after hunting for
some time and not seeing the party arrive, he returned to
the place where he had left us. Not finding us there he
supposed we had passed him, and he therefore marched up
the river during all the next day, when he was convinced
that we had not gone on, as the river was no longer navigable.
He now followed the course of the river down to the forks,
and then took the branch which we are pursuing. During the
three days of his absence, he had been much wearied with
his march, but had lived plentifully, and brought the skins
of three deer. As far as he had ascended Wisdom river it
kept its course obliquely down towards the Jefferson. Immediately
after breakfast, Captain Lewis took Drewyer, Shields and
M‘Neal, and slinging their knapsacks they set out with a
resolution to meet some nation of Indians before they returned,
however long they might be separated from the party. He
directed his course across the low ground to the plain on
the right, leaving the Beaver's-head about two miles to
the left. After walking eight miles to the river, which
they waded, they went on to a commanding point from which
he saw the place at which it enters the mountain, but as
the distance would not permit his reaching it this evening,
he descended towards the river, and after traveling eight
miles further, encamped for the evening some miles below
the mountain. They passed before reaching their camp a handsome
little stream formed by some large springs which rise in
the wide bottom on the left side of the river. In their
way they killed two antelopes, and took with them enough
of the meat for their supper and breakfast the next morning.
In the meantime we proceeded, and in the course of eleven
miles from our last encampment passed two small islands,
sixteen short round bends in the river, and halted in a
bend towards the right where we dined. The river increases
in rapidity as we advance, and is so crooked that the eleven
miles, which have cost us so much labor, only bring us four
miles in a direct line. The weather became overcast towards
evening, and we experienced a slight shower attended with
thunder and lightning. The three hunters who were sent out
killed only two antelopes; game of every kind being scarce.
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